Day 22...Elizabeth City to the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center

FRIDAY, APRIL 20, 2012

     We woke up at our regular time of 5:30-6:00 a.m. and wasted time while we waited on our fellow boaters to start to stir.  We needed to run the generator for about an hour, but we didn’t want to wake everyone up since it is fairly loud.  It was foggy early so we also needed to wait until the fog cleared somewhat. At 9:25 we were ready to go.  Mr. Gus helped with the lines as Gary backed out of the slip.  By then the sun had broken through the early fog.

     The Pasquotank River was beautiful and calm.  It was much different from the bumpy Albemarle Sound or the damp, dreary day yesterday.  After we cruised through the open NS RR bridge, we shared the river with a few crabbers and the osprey peering down on us from its nest very high up in the tree.  Turner's Cut was beautiful.

     We made sure we left early since we didn’t want to miss the 1:30 p.m. South Mills Lock opening.  If we did, the last lock opening for the day would be at 3:30 p.m.  Of course we arrived early.  We’d rather be early than late any time.  The lock operator told us we could tie up to the dolphin.  No, not the mammal.  This dolphin is a group of pilings cabled together to make a sturdy post.  We did just that so we could remain in the same position without running our motor.  

     As you can see in the picture of the lock, the light is red.  Until it is green we must be patient and wait.  

     When we entered the 52 feet wide and 300 feet long lock, the lock operator looped one of our bowlines and one of our stern lines around yellow bollards (round cleats) at the top of the wall. 

     There was a 38 foot boat named LAST DANCE locking behind us.  I started talking to the lady on the bow.  She said to try to keep the stern as close to the wall as possible as we went up about 4 feet to the top.  She also gave me a tip about using the cleat on the boat to leverage the line if needed.  We talked until I had to concentrate to pull the line in as the water filled the lock. 

     The water quickly rushes in to fill the lock.  I had to grip the line tightly to pull it in as we rose to the top of the lock.  It took us 20 minutes to lock through our very first lock on this trip.

 

     Now the lock operator gets in his vehicle and drives to the nearby bridge and opens it for us to continue along the waterway.  We told LAST DANCE to go ahead of us since they motored a little faster than we do.  As they passed us we yelled for them to save us a place at the dock. 

     Now we are in the Dismal Swamp Canal.  It is peaceful and very scenic with the narrow waterway winding its way through the trees on either side of the dark water.  It is the oldest operating artificial waterway in the United States.  The completed canal opened in 1805, 12 years after it was started. 

   

  We traveled four more miles to the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center.  Just before the Welcome Center there is a pontoon (floating) bridge that swings open to let boat traffic through.  It allows people to cross the waterway to the state park on the other side.

     This is also a rest stop for vehicles entering North Carolina so the sign says “Welcome to North Carolina” instead of “Goodbye North Carolina”. 

     We stopped there with Bob and Jane.  They were very nice.  Jane showed me a little brown bear hat she knitted for a baby.  Bob smokes a pipe.  The smell of it brought back fond memories of Uncle Finn smoking his pipe.

     We traveled for 23 miles.  The time is not relevant since we waited for the lock for almost an hour and took 20 minutes to go through the lock. We had a very restful night tied to the dock. 

   

Days 20-21...Elizabeth City, N.C.

WEDNESDAY and THURSDAY, APRIL 18-19, 2012

     I have told you for the last two days that I would tell you about Elizabeth City.  Well today’s the day.  There was so much to tell you about the museum yesterday that I was brain dead by the time I finished.  I’ll be a day behind but will catch up soon. 

     Elizabeth City, North Carolina is known as “The Harbor of Hospitality.”  When we arrived Wednesday, we had bumped forever across Albemarle Sound.  When we got to the Mariners’ Wharf, we were met by fellow boaters Roger and Dorothy from the boat SLOW CHURN and Mr. Gus.  Roger caught our line and helped us into the slip.  We had a chance to talk to them several times at the dock.  They were a very nice, humorous couple.  I wish I had taken their picture.  I just thought about that.  We did exchange boat cards.  It is one way boaters keep in touch if they choose to.  

     Mr. Gus was the official welcomer that day.  The way I understand it is that volunteers greet boaters, help them tie up and answer any questions about their fair city.   This granite memorial tells the “Legend of the Rose Buddies.”

    The dock has several sets of two slips with a short finger-pier in between bordered by huge pilings.  The width of each slip is painted on the seawall in front so you can pick a slip that best fits your boat.  There is a sidewalk in front with benches for joggers, walkers, boat watchers or anyone else to relax on.  Flags decorate the waterfront.  They can also be used to determine the wind direction and speed.  It was a fun place to people watch from our pilothouse seat.  There were ducks in the water and hanging around on the sidewalk waiting for a handout.

     After we rested, we went to eat at a place that shall remain nameless.  Then we stopped for a cupcake to take back to the boat to eat later.  Gary got one called a “birthday” cupcake with white icing, sprinkles and a cherry on top.  It was exactly one month before his real birthday so I said he was practicing for his real one.  I got a strawberry shortcake one.  Then Gary walked to the ACE hardware for stuff to work on the boat. We went to the Visitors Center.  I told you about Susan yesterday.  Later I slaved over a hot stove to prepare leftover spaghetti for supper.  We had a good night’s sleep safe at the dock.

Our view from the pilothouse seat at night

     Before we went to the museum, I was on the side of the boat talking to the guy on the sailboat next to us when I looked down into the water.  I saw what I thought were pretty colored leaves floating on the water.  Then I looked closer and saw that one of the “leaves” had legs and was swimming around.  It was a tiny turtle.  It was so cute.

     After we took the very interesting tour of the museum, we took pictures of the churches we saw on the way to lunch.

Episcopal Church 1856

Catholic Church 1893

Methodist Episcopal Church 1921

Side view with dome

     We decided to splurge on $1.00 hotdogs at Bryon’s.  It is just a tiny place down a side street about a half a block off Main Street.  We had four hotdogs and two drinks for less that half the price of the overpriced hamburgers from yesterday.  We love a good bargain.  The menu is small, but the food was good.

Main Street

    I found my “gift of the trip”.  Every trip we go on I can buy myself ONE thing that I really want.  I found it at the museum gift shop. The gift shop carries a variety of items from local painters, potters, knitters, jewelry makers and other artisans. I have been looking for a ring for my right hand for several months.  Well I found it.  It is a handmade sterling silver ring made by Valda Belyeu from Washington, N.C.  I am a happy camper.

     We liked Elizabeth City and will return.    

Day 21...The Museum of the Albemarle, Elizabeth City, N.C.

THURSDAY, APRIL 19, 2012

     Gary and I woke up early as usual and doodled around until about 7:30 when we walked to Hardees for breakfast.  By that time it was still yucky looking but had stopped raining.  We were anticipating an extremely dreary day after checking the weather forecast very carefully.

Watch it rain

     It is such a small world.  At Hardees we saw the gentleman Mr. Gus who greeted us at the dock yesterday.  He is such a nice man. More about the town and other stuff tomorrow.  You’ll know why soon.

     When we checked in at the Visitors Bureau yesterday, Susan (Yes, another nice Susan) said that The Museum of the Albemarle was worth a visit.  We decided to visit the museum right before lunch and then go eat hotdogs at a place Susan also recommended.  The museum was only about a block away so it was a very easy walk.

     The building was very large and impressive looking from the outside.  It was just as impressive on the inside. 

     We spent the next 1 ½ to 2 hours enjoying the exhibits.  The museum chronicled the history of the area from 2000 years ago to the present.  It had so many wonderful exhibits that I took over 80 photos and didn’t even scratch the surface.  I chose a sampling to show you.  The museum has a website (www.museumofthealbemarle.com) that is very interesting and informative.  You might want to visit their site for more information.

The Discovery Room with activities for kids

    

An A. B. Wright Shad Boat

One of the hallways with exhibits on both side

A six pound cannon & iron doubloon chest

Anchor

Mustache cup

China & spoons from 1825-1850

Pencil

1899 Signboard for boat

Farmall Tractor Model H 1939

Circa 1900 High speed washing machine

  

Part of a comprehensive Coast Guard exhibit

This one is for the grandkids

  

   After the museum we read, worked on the boat and rested.  The temperature never got over 58 degrees.  It looked and felt miserable for almost all of the rest of the day.  More about lunch and the town tomorrow.  

The photo theme for today is clothes from the museum.  I apologize ahead of time.  Some of the pictures have reflections in them.  I tried everything to keep them out but could not.  I think you can see them fairly well.

1846 dress

1900 Traveling ensemble & parasol

Her name is "Libby"

1880 Silk taffeta Reception Gown

Child's Velveteen Coat & Bonnett